Shop Till We Drop: Is The World Finally Turning Its Back On Fast Fashion?
No matter the style, fast fashion seems to cover it all.
During the pandemic, online shopping became the new frontier [1] but as the ugly truth of fashion and clothing waste surfaced [2], there seems to have been a change in direction about the source of our clothing. With the rise of second-hand thrifts, vintage sales, and a boom in hand-me-down apps like Depop, Vinted, and even eBay [3], what exactly is it about thrifting that’s spreading like fever?
Fast Fashion vs Slow Fashion
Let’s go back to the start of 2020, when many fell under the spell of online shopping [1]The rise of fast fashion brands during the pandemic, Shien for example, started as a trickling stream, and exploded into a waterfall [4]. And with budget-friendly options and an array of styles, the appeal was palpable. But perhaps we should focus less on the rise of Shien [4], but its recent fall in popularity, and consequently the escalation of slow fashion [5]. “It encompasses an awareness and approach to fashion that considers the processes and resources required to make clothing. It advocates for buying better-quality garments that will last longer, and values fair treatment of people, animals, and the planet” [5] Slow fashion is an ethical-based movement that steadily gained momentum since 2007 [6]. Since fast fashion exposed the most damaging issues within the fashion industry [7], more people are taking a more sustainable and guilt-free route – none more than Gen Z, who seem to be at the forefront of thrift shopping and resale circulation [8]. Second-hand apps made a massive appearance, with the likes of Depop, in which “of their 15 million users, 90% are under the age of 26” [8]. Widespread vintage ‘kilo sales’ had a fresh surge in popularity, in just the UK alone [9], a budget-friendly alternative that promotes the circulation of preloved items, altogether disincentivizing the fast fashion industry and avoiding contribution to textile and production waste generated by fast fashion companies [10]It seems that everyone has a little bit of the thrifting fever. And with a new generation so valiantly focused on sustainability and eco-friendly options, it’s fair to anticipate its flourishing future.
How has the Industry Changed?
Not so fast – fast fashion is still a present issue, perhaps not what it once was. Just like the buzz around thrifting, many fast fashion brands now seem to be catching on to the ‘trend’ of sustainability, unfortunately resulting in ‘greenwashing’ [11]. To produce environmentally friendly clothes is not by any means a bad thing, yet still ignores pressing issues, such as industry waste and unsustainable use of resources like land, water, and chemical fertilizers [12].
Regardless of whether these sustainable lines are true to their word, the fact is that these brands are still manufacturing and producing brand new clothes that are designed for a wide-spread market; its appeal is targeted to as many consumers as possible, consequently resulting in an abundance of excess waste [12] In contrast to thrifting and ‘circular fashion’, in which resale circulation is the entire point – there is nothing ‘new’, and therefore no waste has been created [13]. So, what does the future look like for both fast and slow fashion? Optimistically speaking, it’s important to recognise the environmental effort made by the masses to pursue a more sustainable wardrobe [8]. But this does not eliminate the still ever-present issue of fast fashion and mindless consumerism [14]. Like many social movements, change is made through information and education, collectively encouraging the world and future generations to pursue not just a friendlier closet, but a friendlier lifestyle too – what could be more fashionable than that?
References:
[1] Phoebe Jobling, Online shopping has surged during the pandemic – but can retailers keep pace with continuous high demand?, BusinessLive, https://www.business-live.co.uk/special-features/online-shopping-surged-during-pandemic-21202301, accessed on 27/07/22.
[2] Noelle Greenwood, The Cruel Reality Behind Fast Fashion, Cruelty Free Super, https://www.crueltyfreesuper.com.au/blog/the-cruel-reality-behind-fast-fashion/, accessed on 27/07/22.
[3] Amy Bell, Second-hand clothing apps give young shoppers new style twist, Financial Times, https://www.ft.com/content/2a318727-8047-4dca-972e-dba9cfb4229e, accessed on 27/07/22.
[4] Vauhini Vara, Fast, Cheap, and Out of Control: Inside Shein’s Sudden Rise, Wired, https://www.wired.com/story/fast-cheap-out-of-control-inside-rise-of-shein/, accessed on 26/07/22.
[5] Madeleine Hill, What Is Slow Fashion?, Good On You, https://goodonyou.eco/what-is-slow-fashion/, accessed on 26/07/22.
[6] Alex Assoune, An Introduction To Slow Fashion And Why It Matters, Panaprium, https://www.panaprium.com/blogs/i/introduction-slow-fashion, accessed on 27/07/22.
[7] Alex Assoune, Who Created Fast Fashion, Panaprium, https://www.panaprium.com/blogs/i/created-fast-fashion, accessed on 27/07/22.
[8] Eliza Huber, ‘For Gen Z, Thrifting Isn’t Just A Way To Shop, It’s A Lifestyle’, Refinery29,https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/2020/10/10135164/thrifting-gen-z-thrift-shopping-trend, accessed on 25/07/22.
[9] What is a vintage kilo sale and are they worth it?, oneoffvintage, https://oneoffvintage.co.uk/blogs/vintage-retro-clothing-blog/what-is-a-vintage-kilo-sale-and-are-they-worth-it , accessed 27/07/22.
[10] Sara Paciaroni, We tried the Glasgow Kilo Sale – here’s how it went, GlasgowTimes, https://www.glasgowtimes.co.uk/news/20157581.tried-glasgow-kilo-sale—went/, accessed on 17/01/23.
[11] Alex Assoune, What is Greenwashing, Panaprium, https://www.panaprium.com/blogs/i/what-is-greenwashing, accessed on 27/07/22.
[12] Christina Dean, Waste – is it ‘really’ in fashion?, Fashion Revolution, https://www.fashionrevolution.org/waste-is-it-really-in-fashion/, accessed on 27/07/22.
[13] Redesigning the future of fashion, Ellen MacArthur Foundation, https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/topics/fashion/overview?gclid=Cj0KCQjwxIOXBhCrARIsAL1QFCbUKpj8_59beyvIGhq8zAC3bntXSM0ZNAw5oKWNeAFolZyJ01WVXE8aAuY2EALw_wcB, accessed on 27/07/22.
[14] Reanna Smith, Conscious consumption: the cure for our mindless approach to fashion, Mindless Mag, https://www.mindlessmag.com/post/conscious-consumption-the-cure-for-our-mindless-approach-to-fashion-1, accessed on 27/07/22.